Scarpa Zen Pro Gtx Waterproof Reviews Womens Boots
Amongst the broad variety of approach shoes available today, these shoes stand out as the armored tank of the armada. They are extremely durable and built to withstand years of hard abuse. In fact, many retailers and reviewers (eastward.g. Outdoorgearlab) allocate them in the "calorie-free hiking shoe" category, and for good reason.
Scarpa Zen Pro, Retail $169.00
The Zen Pro is probably improve for straight-up hiking than most approach shoes on the market place, however they are however useful to a climber in many situations, and since many climbers might overlook them because of the "low-cal hiker" designation I want to provide some field-test feel near these shoes.
Durability*: The Zen Pro is a re-release of the popular Zen, which Scarpa has been making for a few years. The Zen is the most durable shoe I've ever owned. I bought a pair in the winter of 2010 and I've beat them remorselessly into submission over the terminal 3+ years, and these shoes have refused to die. Granted, I replaced the laces at some point and there'southward a bit of Barge cement involved in the toe rand at present, just when I consider the short lifespans of many approach shoes—in fact this is becoming a mutual gripe I hear at the crag—the durability of these shoes really stands out. The corruption I subjected my Zens to includes multi-twenty-four hours backcountry trips with heavy loads, innumerable descents down loose scree, speed laps in the Tetons, and two trips upwardly El Cap. And quite a few runs, hikes in snow, etc…not bad for a little shoe.
The new Zen Pro aslope my trusty Zen, 3.5 years quondam
*Since the Zen Pro is new I cannot speak to the long-term durability, however unless there are flaws in the manufacturing I am expecting them to last just every bit long, if non longer, than their predecessor.
Improvements to the Zen: Scarpa made a few improvements to the Zen, most notably using their new SOCK-FIT pattern, a engineering developed with the legendary mountain athlete Ueli Steck and starting time implemented in the Rebel series alpine climbing boots. SOCK-FIT basically integrates the natural language and mini-gusset with unmarried slice of elastic Schoeller fabric. They are comfortable; they hug my anxiety snugly but let my toes infinite to motion.
The Zen Pro breaks in faster than the Zen; stiffness and long break-in time were chief complaints about the older model.
Leather stitching nearly the pinky toe tended to blow out on the Zen (the site of near of my Barge cement); Scarpa has altered the design with TPU over-injection to protect this and other clothing spots.
Sturdy toe box: Like the Zen, the Zen Pro has a very sturdy rubber toe rand welded to a stiff sole. Yous probably can't stub your toe in these shoes if you tried. This came in clutch ane day: on a convoluted descent in the Wind Rivers a few years dorsum we found ourselves needing to descend a steep snowfield unroped, without axes, to achieve some other rappel anchor. With the Zen shoes on my anxiety, I realized that I could kick steps into the actually business firm snow without bruising my toes; I even kicked a couple snow bollards that we rappelled on. Non saying that's a recommended tactic, simply being able to kick things tin can be useful…
Also, these shoes tin can handle the abuse of jugging. In the Valley I've seen people wear straight through the rand of Boulder 10 shoes in one trip up the Captain. My Zens barely showed wear after ii ascents.
Rock climbing functioning: The Zen Pro is built on a very stiff, thick sole. The stiffness is a boon or a bane depending on what y'all're climbing. For an approach shoe they take incredible edging at the cost of inferior smearing. The Vibram Spyder-ii sole is stickier than a hiking shoe or running shoe but less grippy than climbing-oriented approach shoes (e.thousand. 5-Ten Guide Tennie, LaSportiva Ganda). I was happy using the Zen in classic approach situations (scrambling upwards the Decease Slabs to Half Dome, soloing piece of cake fifth terrain in the Tetons, etc).
The new Zen Pro aslope my trusty Zen, 3.5 years old
Hiking performance: This is where this shoe actually shines. A thick cushioned EVA midsole on top of a rigid rubber sole, topped with a heavily cushioned suede upper, make this a really sturdy hiking shoe. I can footstep on sharp stone shards and not feel them, which is nice while hiking on scree or rock-studded glacier. The tread is aggressive and will grip in gravel or mud like a hiking boot. These shoes are strong enough to support carrying a heavy load without forcing the foot muscles to exercise the stabilization work. I wore my Zen shoes on quite a few backcountry climbing trips, packing in sixty+ pound loads with no issue of foot fatigue.
Warmth and water-repellence: The Zen Pro is a warm shoe. If you wear it in warm conditions you volition sweat a lot. This shoe is actually meliorate for common cold-weather condition utilize and works great for tall scrambling where a little warmth is nice. They are not designed to be waterproof, but the suede upper and thick cushioning go on water from seeping through for a while; they'll soak through in a proper rain, merely I've found that my feet stay dry through a slushy glissade or quick hop-and-splash stream crossing.
Weight: The price of bomber durability is weight: these shoes are heavy and don't actually plummet when shoved in a pack. Surprisingly, they counterbalance like to less-durable shoes. For some comparison, weights and my basic impression of popular approach shoes:
(manufacturer's claimed weight per pair, which can be based on different sizes and then take with a grain of salt)
LaSportiva Ganda Guide: xl oz burly, heavy, good climbing, very expensive
LaSportiva Boulder X Mid: 36 oz hybrid approach shoe/ super-light mountain boot, meet my review
LaSportiva Boulder Ten: 34 oz tried-and truthful classic approach shoe, toe rand wears out fast
Scarpa Zen Pro: 34 oz super burly, stiff, skilful edging, excellent hiking
Five-Ten Guide Tennie: 29 oz packable, great friction, medium support, kinda flimsy
La Sportiva Ganda: 29 oz excellent climbing, very tight, uncomfortable to hike, expensive
Scarpa Crux: 28 oz light, flimsy, expert smearing
Evolve Cruzer: 15.four oz super low-cal, minimal majority, minimal hiking support
Practiced looks: Usually not a cistron I take into account much, just I must admit these shoes wait pretty proficient; at to the lowest degree they haven't fallen victim to what I tin can only describe as the "gadgeted-out hyper-tech" look of many technical shoes. Sometimes simpler is ameliorate. I've gotten quite a few complements on them from bonny women at the crag…for you immature dirtbag males who can't start a conversation that doesn't involve beta, good shoes could be an in…
Summary:
Pros: Very durable, burly toe rand, good hiker, stiff and cushioned support, medium rock climbing power, warm, repel some water.
Cons: Heavy, don't collapse, don't breathe well, don't climb as well as slimmer approach shoes.
Bottom Line: The Zen Pro is a very well-congenital, durable shoe and a bang-up asset to a climber; I'k looking forwards to using them on any climbing circuit that involves long and/or scrappy hiking, requires ivth-depression fiveth scrambling, and where weight/packability is not critical. They will also exist my go-to shoe for wall climbing, as they will stand up to the abuses of jugging. This shoe is nigh comparable to the LaSportiva Boulder X; it is stiffer and has a burlier toe rand, equal weight.
They're great for most climbing with a long or technical approach where y'all rappel the road (Blood-red Rocks, Longs Tiptop Diamond, tons of climbs in the desert). Another application: the Zen was my shoe of pick for a one-twenty-four hours lap on the Exum Ridge of the M Teton. With 14+ miles of trail and yard+ feet of 3rd class through v.easy terrain, they were perfect.
This shoe will besides be perfect for whatever backcountry climbing trip where you need to carry a heavy pack and want to just carry one pair of walking shoes (Incredible Blob, Cirque of the Towers, Bugaboos, etc).
And the all-time reason to go them: you're tired of paying for things that clothing out and need replacement so you want to buy a pair of shoes that you tin corruption with abandon for three years.
This is non a good selection for climbs that don't have lots of technical approaching and/or where you carry your shoes up the route (climbs in the Blackness Canyon, the Rostrum, Half Dome, Lumpy Ridge, etc). For these I bring something lighter, even flimsy ultralight running shoes can be just fine in places like the Blackness.
The Scarpa Zen Pro (women'due south) on backcountry.com
The Scarpa Zen Pro (men'due south) on backcountry.com
Review by Drew Thayer. Thayer blogs at Carrots and Peanut Butter. He is a Senior Correspondent to The Climbing Zine.
About the states: The Climbing Zine was started in 2010 by Al Smith III and Luke Mehall. Information technology continues to the day with the mission of representing the true essence of climbing. Our crown precious stone is our printed version, but we likewise do the interweb affair, and Kindle.
We have as well published two books: The Not bad American Dirtbags and Climbing Out of Bed, both written past publisher, Luke Mehall.
Source: https://climbingzine.com/gear-review-scarpa-zen-pro/
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